Edible Mushrooms: Earthly Delights
By Susan Jane Cheney
Susan Jane Cheney is a former member of the Moosewood Restaurant Collective in Ithaca, New York, who writes and teaches about natural foods. A long-time contributor to Vegetarian Times magazine and other periodicals, she has authored two cookbooks—Breadtime: A Down-to-Earth Cookbook for Bakers and Bread Lovers and Stir Crazy!: More than 100 Quick, Low-Fat Recipes for Your Wok or Stir Fry Pan.
Portaging my small solo canoe in the Northwoods, gaze fixed downward, I’m always amazed by the tremendous variety of exotic-looking mushrooms that grow on the forest floor, decaying logs and tree trunks. Every trip, I vow to learn more about these wild specimens, some of which may be safe to eat—but have not yet undertaken this study. Still, my edible mushroom repertoire has expanded greatly since childhood, when white button mushrooms were the only type commonly available.
Today’s well stocked shopping venues feature a generous selection of fresh mushrooms. You’ll likely find white button cousins—beige criminis, giant portobellos, and plump-capped brown shiitakes all year round, and occasionally may discover fresh pitted cone-topped morels, antennae-like enokis, funnel-shaped chanterelles, delicate fanned oyster mushrooms, and other seasonal specialties.
Many mushrooms are also available dried. Minus the 90 percent of volume that is water, these are intensely flavorful and function more like seasonings than vegetables in most preparations. Strain mushroom soaking water through a coffee filter and use it for stock.
A mushroom is a fungus, a primitive plant that lacks chlorophyll and depends on other plants for nourishment. Some mushrooms have parasitic or symbiotic relationships with trees and other living hosts; others live on dead leaves, wood and other organic matter. What we think of as mushrooms are only one stage of their lives: the fruiting bodies that produce the spores to create a new generation.
Edible mushrooms have rich, earthy flavors with various subtle undertones. They're well endowed with glutamic acid, a natural substance that enhances the flavors of other ingredients with which they're cooked. Raw mushrooms are cholesterol-free and low in calories and fat. Many contain substantial protein, along with vitamins A and C, B-vitamins, and minerals, including iron, selenium, potassium and phosphorus.
Mushrooms are exceedingly versatile: They can be sautéed or stir-fried in butter or oil; simmered in soups, stews and sauces; puréed for spreads; and tossed raw into salads. The more flavor a mushroom has, the more likely it will taste best plainly presented, perhaps just brushed with olive oil or a simple marinade and seared under the broiler or on a grill. Though relatively expensive, just one or two unusual mushrooms can liven up an entire meal.
Fresh mushrooms deteriorate within several days after picking. Look for those with an unblemished, firm surface and fresh fragrance. Most keep relatively well in a paper bag in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator, but refrigerate especially fragile mushrooms in a shallow container covered with a paper towel or cheesecloth, slightly dampened if the mushrooms feel particularly dry.
Clean fresh mushrooms just before you use them. I like to use a soft brush or small sponge to dab off any dirt. If they're really gritty, rinse them quickly under cool water and pat dry. Avoid soaking, as they'll readily absorb water and become soggy. Store dried mushrooms in airtight containers in a cool, dry cabinet.
Boletes. Known as cèpes in France and porcinis in Italy, various members of this large mushroom family appear in birch and aspen forests—and then in markets—usually in late summer and early autumn. They're more consistently available dried, primarily imported from Europe. Fresh boletes vary in color from white to tan to reddish brown. The thick, club-like stems of these satiny-textured delicacies take slightly longer to cook than their tender flat or domed caps, which may reach ten inches in diameter. Their flavor is wonderfully rich, sweet and earthy. Slice and sauté them for a side dish or pasta topping, or grill them with olive oil and herbs.
Chanterelles: Called girolles in France, these prized mushrooms are always gathered in the wild, mainly in the Pacific Northwest and on the East coast. They have gold trumpet-shaped caps with wavy, rolled edges and firm stalks that narrow toward the base. Members of the chanterelle family, which includes the black trumpet, vary in size and color. They have a fruity flavor and aroma, resembling that of apricots, but may also have a spicy, nutty or flowery cast. The intensity of a raw chanterelle's aroma foretells the strength of its flavor when cooked. Showcase these precious mushrooms by grilling or lightly sautéing fresh ones solo. Soak dried chanterelles for about an hour in warm water, then simmer slowly until they're just mildly chewy; they'll add richness to soups, stews and sauces.
Criminis: Resembling white button mushrooms in size and shape but darker colored and deeper in flavor, criminis are at their best when firm with tightly closed caps. Substitute criminis, also known as Roman or browntop mushrooms, for white buttons in any recipe.
Enokis: Also known as enoki-dakes, enokitakes, snow puffs, and velvet stems, these curious-looking Asian mushrooms have long, thin stems topped by small spherical caps. They have a mild citrus flavor and are crunchy, slightly moist and cream-colored when fresh. Now cultivated, primarily on the West Coast, they’re available in sealed plastic packages. Refrigerated, they will stay fresh for several days. Trim off the roots and rinse before adding them raw to a salad or sandwich. Try sprinkling enokis into a stir-fry or clear soup just before serving—but cook lightly, because they toughen if cooked too long.
Morels: These firm but spongy, honeycomb-textured wild mushrooms with thimble-like caps are black, ivory or yellow, tiny to fist-sized or larger. Their robust flavor, coveted around the world, is elusive—somewhat sweet, nutty and spicy. To clean, trim off the stem end and slice crosswise or lengthwise, then rinse quickly and dry thoroughly. Soak dried morels for just a few minutes in warm water. Sautéed or simmered morels are delicious with pasta, noodles or rice.
Oyster Mushrooms: Pale tan to gray, with stubby stems and graceful, fan-shaped, smooth-surfaced caps, mushrooms in this family have a savory, mellow flavor and delicate texture. They usually grow clustered on trees, logs and stumps; individual fans range from less than one-fourth inch to more than six inches across. Oyster mushrooms thrive in cool, wet conditions and are most prevalent in spring and fall in the wild; cultivated ones are often available year-round. They tend to discolor when too dry; if slimy, they're past their prime. Avoid overpowering them with strong flavors—or too much butter or oil. Break or cut large clusters into bite-sized pieces and add to sautés, stir-fries or soups near the end of cooking.
Portobellos: These are the giants of the mushroom world with sturdy stems and thick, flat, deep brown caps. Both parts are edible—just trim the stem end and wipe the top with a damp cloth. Broil or grill portobellos or add them to hearty stews and soups.
Shiitakes: Also known as black forest, Japanese forest, golden oak, or Chinese black mushrooms, shiitakes have a firm, somewhat "meaty" texture and subtly sweet, flavor. Look for those with large fleshy caps and small stems. Shiitakes contain numerous enzymes and vitamins not normally found in plants, which may explain many of the healing qualities associated with them that scientific studies are now corroborating. Fresh shiitakes keep a week or so in the refrigerator, and will eventually dry there. To reconstitute dried shiitakes, soak in warm water for 30 minutes to several hours, discarding the tough stems. Try shiitakes in soups, stews, sauces and stir-fries; fresh ones are also tasty baked or grilled.
RECIPES:
BIG BROILED PORTABELLOS
2-4 servings
These large-capped mushrooms taste almost like steak when broiled with a simple sauce. Serve them as an appetizer, side dish or hearty garnish on a green salad.
1 tablespoon light or dark barley miso
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable stock or water
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 portobello mushrooms, 5 to 6 inches in diameter
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
Preheat the broiler.
Whisk the miso, vinegar, stock and oil to a smooth paste.
Wipe off the mushrooms and pare the stem ends. Carefully remove the stem and slice about 1/4 inch thick. Slice the caps about 1/2 inch thick. Arrange the pieces on a baking sheet and brush with the miso mixture. Broil for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender.
Garnish with parsley and serve hot.
ENOKI MUSHROOM SALAD WITH SESAME-GINGER DRESSING
4 servings
Salads showcase the delicate, sprout-like quality of these Asian mushrooms.
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
1/4 cup sesame tahini
2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup vegetable stock
2 teaspoons shoyu
1 teaspoon umeboshi vinegar
6 to 8 cups loosely packed baby greens or spinach leaves
1 medium carrot, julienned
4 medium radishes, julienned
One 3 1/2-oz. package enoki mushrooms, stems separated and trimmed, rinsed and well drained
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions
Whisk together the ginger, tahini, rice vinegar, lemon juice, shoyu and umeboshi vinegar. Gradually add the stock, whisking constantly.
Divide the greens among 4 salad plates or bowls. Top with carrot, radish, enokis and green onion. Drizzle the dressing over all, and serve immediately.
OYSTER MUSHROOM-MISO SOUP
4 servings
Serve this simple savory soup as a first course or light lunch.
6 cups vegetable broth
1 medium to large leek, well washed, trimmed, and thinly sliced crosswise
4 cloves minced garlic
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
1/4 cup loosely packed arame, rinsed (optional)
4 ounces fresh oyster mushrooms, stem ends pared and torn into bite-sized pieces
6 ounces tofu, cubed
2 tablespoons mellow barley miso
4 cups loosely packed, coarsely chopped spinach
Umeboshi vinegar to taste
In a large saucepan, bring the broth to a boil. Add the leek, garlic, carrot and arame. Cover and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the mushrooms and tofu and simmer for a few minutes longer.
Whisk the miso with several tablespoons of soup stock. Stir the mixture back into the soup along with the spinach. Add umeboshi vinegar to taste. Serve immediately.